After a shower I felt much better and went to the pagoda after all. I was glad I did because it turned out to be the genuine article. It was a 15th century temple where our guide and his family have worshiped for centuries. Whilst there he lit a Yarzeit joss stick at his Fathers grave.
The temple was not brightly coloured and shiny like the tourist ones we visited this morning , but was still beautifully decorated. Some wonderful ancient bonzais there also.